Les jardins Majorelles, un paradis haute couture!

majorelleUn séjour à Marrakech ne saurait être complet sans la visite des jardins Majorelles. Il est des endroits qui sont des exceptions. Les raisons peuvent en être variées, ici c’est l’idée qui a été originale tout en restant dans la droite ligné de la culture marocaine qui a élevé le jardin au rang de point de passage obligé depuis des siècles.
Le jardin est au Maroc un art de vivre, une manière de disposer chez soi d’un microcosme édénique indispensable au développement personnel et à l’harmonie dans la maison. Il est à noter que le mot riad, que l’on connaît si bien aujourd’hui de par le monde, signifie « jardin ». Que dans un vrai riad, le patio est un espace fait d’orangers plantés et d’une fontaine qui chante la symphonie de l’eau, accompagnée d’oiseaux chahuteurs. Le patio est l’élément central de ces bâtisses, toutes les portes et les fenêtres s’ouvrent sur cet espace de lumière et de fraicheur.
Les jardins Majorelle ont été créés par l’artiste peintre Jacques Majorelle en 1931 et ont été rachetés par Yves Saint Laurent et Pierre Bergé en 1980 avant d’être aujourd’hui confiés à leur fondation et labellisés Maison des Illustres en 2011. Ce microcosme de plus de 300 espèces pousse la notion de jardin à l’extrême, par sa variété d’essences, ses couleurs et ses senteurs, sa fraicheur unique, ses multiples recoins et le chant des oiseaux, de toutes tailles et de toutes colories, qui pensent vraiment que la nature est bien faite !

Le plus étonnant est de découvrir l’endroit après un périple dans la médina ou dans Guéliz. Le tumulte qui règne partout dans la ville rouge est culturel et il est très spécifique à la cité. Les ânes et les motos, les calèches et les vélos, plus la tendance naturelle des populations à s’interpeller avec force plutôt que d’échanger mezzo voce, donne un ensemble cacophonique sympathique mais très présent en décibels. Soudain, après avoir déambulé et souvent cherché son chemin, le calme et la sérénité qui règnent dans l’enceinte des jardins, semblent irréels. Pour apprécier pleinement les atouts de l’endroit, il faut y être dès l’ouverture, avant le rush, pour ressentir avec force les senteurs, dans l’air encore limpide du matin. Il faut prendre son temps, s’asseoir sur un banc, laisser l’œil vagabonder, suivre la lente progression des tortues qui parsèment les allées et pour qui le temps s’écoule tranquillement.
Il existe une autre raison à la visite des jardins Majorelle, le musée. Sous l’impulsion de Pierre Bergé, la culture Berbère est mise en exergue. Des objets de l’artisanat, bijoux, tapis, ustensiles mais aussi une tentative pour fédérer les informations liées à cette culture très étrange dont les racines se perdent dans la nuit des temps. Beaucoup de berbères ignorent tout de leur propre culture ancestrale, l’alphabet lui-même et la langue Amazighe ont bien failli disparaître. Toutes les cultures orales sont fragiles, elles ne doivent leur existence qu’à la transmission, les poèmes déclamés ou chantés et le savoir faire détenu par quelques uns.
Un musée qui éclaire une culture dans un jardin où bien sûr le naturel est un peu arrangé, mais où la nature s’exprime dans toute sa beauté.

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